Coat care.

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Shane
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Coat care.

Post by Shane »

Every body have their own ways in caring for their coat and I have read somethings. Its peoples own opinion so eventhough somethings which I wouldn't find appropriate though.

I groom my chows an average of three times a week espeacially seeing that they are shedding their coat to put in the new longer coat for winter.
I use a pin brush, steel tooth comb, a rake comb and a pair of 4" sciccors. I clip their wiskers and the hair under their pads. Now and again I give them a little shape up, to clean around their edges. Note I only use the bristle side of the brush for their tail only so it can keep their fluff. I also use it to brush the hair between their toes and their ears.

They are bathed once a week with flee and tick shampoo (because we live in warm weather parasites can be a problem). They are wet and lathered. I leave it on for about 5 - 10 minutes and then I rinse it off. Usually I'll repeat with a Vo5 shampoo to remove any remaining dirt and to also leave a nice scent behind. After they are given a final rinse and then they are blow dried or natural. After their bath and dried they are given a quick brush up, because the heavy grooming was done a day before their bath and also given flee and tick powder.

Feeding also helps with coat care. I feed them Memeber's Mark Exceed, a high quality kibble with 30% protein and 20% fat. I also supplement their diet with a simple vitamin found almost in any shop (Hartz). I also supplement them with cod liver oil and time to time chicken fats and skin (and other high vitamin organs like kidney and liver cooked propally). Athough the dog food says no supplement needed, I still do it because every dog food is not designed for a particular breed. So what their body doesn't need it usually lets out.

So those are basically thing that helps keep my chows coat in tip top shape, also note that parasited impairs the growth and health of both the coat and the animal. So I try to keep them parasite free as posible.

Shane
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Post by Taz »

Clip their Wiskers????
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SORRY PPLE

Post by Shane »

I highly appologize, it is not suppose to be cat care, ity is suppose to be coat care.

Shane
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Taz
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Re: SORRY PPLE

Post by Taz »

Shane wrote:I highly appologize, it is not suppose to be cat care, ity is suppose to be coat care.

Shane
Now i'm confused.. :?
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Re: SORRY PPLE

Post by Shane »

Taz wrote:
Shane wrote:I highly appologize, it is not suppose to be cat care, ity is suppose to be coat care.

Shane
Now i'm confused.. :?
Taz my heading for this subject was 'cat care' but it was meant to be coat care.

Shane
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Post by chowadmin »

fixed the subject from Cat care to Coat Care.
Best regards,

ChowChow.org Administrator


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Shane
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thanx

Post by Shane »

Thanx alot for changing the name for me.

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Post by Jazzy »

I use the pin brush on Avis, but also use the bristle brush to make sure there are no "small knots". She's still a puppy; do you recommend just using the pin brush?
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For a puppy

Post by Shane »

I would recommend you use the pin brush and a steel teeth comb for right now. Seeing she is that age take gentle strokes cause the hard metal can irrate the skin.

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Post by Debbie »

Taz - I think you were wondering what whiskers are?? Am I correct? Whiskers are the long strands of thicker individual hair coming off the side of the face. Cats have them too.
Happy Thanksgiving from Canada. Today is our thanksgiving and a day off! I brushed Bones for about 2 hours - he loves it... Debbie
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Taz
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Post by Taz »

Debbie wrote:Taz - I think you were wondering what whiskers are?? Am I correct? Whiskers are the long strands of thicker individual hair coming off the side of the face. Cats have them too.
Happy Thanksgiving from Canada. Today is our thanksgiving and a day off! I brushed Bones for about 2 hours - he loves it... Debbie
Thats kind of right.
But why on earth do they clip their whiskers?
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Shane
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Why i clip the whiskers?

Post by Shane »

Taz the reason why i clip the whiskers of my my its really optional. I clip them because I heard that clipping the whisker allows the face to look "cleaner". Not in the since that the chow needs to bathe. I notice that i looked "cleaner" and cleares so thats why I continue to do it on a weekly bases.

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Post by Shane »

Double Coats

Kimberly Meredith Cavanna gives insight on coat care. She was breeding and showing Alaskan Malamutes from 1970 and is also a judge.

Rules
1. The coat must be clean and in good condition
2. Use a quality conditioner after bathing
3. Blow dry the coat with a non-heat dryer (so the coat won’t dry out). Make sure the coat is completely dry).
4. The coat must be “lined comb” out to remove all dead hair.
5. Trim the feet for neatness.

Tools
1. Traleigh Coconut breeze Shampoo and Traleigh Velvet Touch Conditioner.
2. K-9 II dog dryer (its her most important tool)
3. Chris Christensen Pin Brush
4. Super Coat by Cindra
5. Crown Royale Bodifier
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Post by kingalls »

Mr. Nahkohe isn't a show dog but I do have him groomed regularly. Giving him a shampoo is out of the question. (He hates water.) Every 5-6 weeks his grooming appointment is an average of 2 hours of brushing, brushing, combing, combing....His coat is beautiful - lots of lanolin in it. His groomer loves his coat. She does show dogs and said their care of constant shampoo removes the natural oils. He gets his behind shaved to keep him tidy but that's it. Because his walks/runs are on hard surfaces, his nails are naturally trimmed.
I use a comb and rake with rotating teeth. I also use a "slicker" brush but that's just for the "surface". The comb gets down deep to get the mats close to the skin out.
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Bathing

Post by Shane »

It is true that bathing removes the oils produced by the coat which gives it their sheen. Have you ever hears he saying to much of a good thing is bad for you. When the dog goes about his day to day activities dirt and other foreign objects enter their coat building up and causing the “doggy” smell. Ok since oil itself is sticky it holds the dirt in place, making it impossible for grooming to remove. You will get rid of seeds and burrs which may burrow down to the skin. (Try pouring cooking oil on a surface say a rug and add some dirt, then try getting it out without water and or soap. The only thing that would happen ; you’ll spread it about, this is what happens in the coat.) Also if a dog was to be injured saying a small cut, there is a risk of infection because the will interact with the area and so forth.

Bathing like that was said do remove oil but in time like a day or so do build up fairly quickly. The same reason why dogs will need a bath are the exact seem reason why we need one. When a dog is bathed it removes all unwanted “aliens” which dims the coloration of the coat. After the bath is quite obvious to see what all was covering the coat and how bright and “vibrant” it has become.

If it is because that you may think about the oils that is being lost, that is why I recently started adding conditioner into my dogs shampoo. I don’t worry about all that ph balance thingy is because it being mixed with the shampoo, the shampoo dilutes it. Also from the same resource where I found the first information, another breeder, owner, exhibitor says that she use baby shampoo which is quite sensitive and she has never seen and red spots. I read with when it comes to the silky breeds, a breeder, owner, exhibitor uses conditioner when she brushes.

I had my chows use to being bathed weekly the minute they were brought into my care. So right now I have no problem at all when I bathe them. I have bathed and groomed other dogs in my time with chows and seen that I have a harder time bathing and even grooming them, because they never had any or very few experience. Those that just stood or sat there which made my time easier where I did not had to play a game of “catch the wet dog”, were bathed and groomed from earlier puppy hood.

Shane
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