Sigh.

[camickey]

So as I told everyone back then, I left home because of the way they treat Mochi. When we're in my Auntie's house, he really changed. At first he nipped some people there, but eventually it stopped. Even if I play with him, walk in front of him whatsoever, he won't bite me. He got better. He gets to play with my cousin's mixed chow everyday. He listens to me although not all the time. However, in some complicated situation I have to go back home here with my relatives. I don't know why but he's wild if we're here. He changed again..in a not so good way. A while ago, he was in the backyard and I will get him to go inside for him to eat dinner. He gone crazy for some reason that I don't know. The worst is he bit me and now it's bleeding. I was really frustrated so I left him outside with the leash. I don't know what happened and why.

[Rio]

Maybe he is picking up on the negative atmosphere, but I am just guessing. I would try some serious training if you can.
Good Luck it must be so frustrating for you.

[Cam Atis]

You must be ready when situations arise with your chowpup. Read a lot on training and visualize and think what you will do.
Chows are snappy according to the vet I have talked to back in Quezon City. Her comment "snappy" meaning they bite easily is not on the informations about chows but is somewhat hinted on the description of "fiercely protective". So I took her comment to heart as she is the vet and she saw chows already. Keeping that in mind, I waited for the day that Cassie will challenge me. And She did. On her meal. Like she doesn't want me to touch her food (lechon which is a treat really). She bit my hand, did it twice in a row which established her intent really. I did the ultimate thing I have to do to teach her. I grabbed her by the scruff and shook her small frame. While talking to her in stern words while observing her reaction to my reprimand. I was glad she knew As she keeps wagging her tail while crying that I release her. So I did. It is but a few seconds of discipline. Imitating a mother dog. I saw a lot during my childhood so it is easy for me. However, You must be careful and respectful of a chow's attitude. Keeping in mind that they are independent in nature.
She got the message. Now she allows me to get her food from her mouth even if t is lechon. The key is timing.
BUT, You have to give some allowance if she is just being playful as puppies have sharp teeth. She can wound you but you must know if it is an accident or intentionally done.

[Victory]

Chows are no more prone to bite than any other independent thinking breed, like Sammies, Rotties, Dobies, GSDs etc. They are however extremely sensitive to tension around them and will react to it. Your chow is uncomfortable with some members of your family and from what you've said prefers a calm quite household. First, if you are nervous and upset your chow is going to pick up on that and react to it, so you have to make sure you are at all times as calm and confident as possible. If you are upset about something, leave your chow alone! Unless it is just alone time between the two of you, then just comfort each other, don't try to make him do anything, just sit out in the yard with him and be together. Ask yourself this question every time, "if he were a cat, would I be trying to make him do something he doesn't want to do? If the answer is no, then don't force him either. you CAN NOT force a chow, the trick is to be a good LEADER so they want to do what you ask them to do. This is done by having consistent rules, clear commands, (it is useless to try and teach "sit", if they don't understand what you mean by the word.) patience and above all fairness.

Also never, ever rebuke your chow with being hit, shaken or rolled. They will respond to these ways in one of two ways, they will become hand shy, meaning everytime you or anyone else even reaches for them they will either try to back/run away or if they can't get away they will bite. Or they will simply learn to bite first. The first scenerio is very common with chows, and it is bad news. Time outs are the best ways to let them know you're not happy with them. Also before giving a command, make sure they are looking right at you, they should be watching you, this way they can interpert your features, (dogs are masters at this) and learn your mood and what is expected of them. I even have a command for this, "to me" which means they are too look right at me, right in my eyes. I teach it with treats I hold up and then bring to my face, when they are looking right in my eyes, they get the treat.

[Rory's Dad]

Victory said it right.

[camickey]

Most of the times I would go to Mochi if I am really upset. I didn't know that it would affect his behavior. Anyhow, are there really times when they're enjoying outside or what they're doing and when it's time for you to stopped them they would snap at you? I think he's like that. Also, he ALWAYS has his mouth open. Is it okay? Some said it is the way they cool down.

[Rory's Dad]

Mochi can definitely sense if you are upset, but dont let that stop you from going to him. He is really happy to be your therapy. What you want to avoid is transferring your emotions to other people. That will make him sensitive to accepting those people.

Its perfectly natural for him to want to continue to enjoy your play times. You just need to figure out a way to positively end it...I would suggest a really heartfelt 'good boy', and then reward him with a treat or have him lie down and relax with a favored toy.

Chows very frequently will be open mouthed. It is a way of cooling down. In younger pups, it can just be that the tongue doesnt fit real well into his mouth. Rory is a 'snuffer' and a 'grunter'. Almost a second language to him. He has no breathing issues, just likes to communicate that way. Sometimes, i wonder if he is purring.

[kingalls]

Chows and probably a number of other dogs and animals will pick up on your feelings and movements and react to that versus much of what you might be saying - so if you are telling Mochi one thing but your body and movements say something else, it will be your non-vocal communication that will be conveyed.
My two get very upset if my DH and I get into a heated discussion. I tend to be more animated so they get restless and not sure what to do.
A long time ago, I had a cat relaxing on my chest while I was in a heated arguement with my ex. My cat got up and bit me on the nose as though she was saying - stop it!

[camickey]

So I was read Victory's post about teaching bite inhibition. It was stated there that, "How do you teach bite inhibition, my rule is that my chows are never, ever allowed to mouth, not in any way. They can lick but open mouthed approachs for attention or anything else are firmly discouraged. Closed mouthed nosing, or licking is okay, (to a point), dogs do communicate with their mouths this is understood. But no dog you own should ever approach you to grap you with their mouths open."

That's actually one of my problems. He's always approaching me with his mouth open. So how should I teach him how to come to me closed mouth?

[Victory]

So I was read Victory's post about teaching bite inhibition. It was stated there that, "How do you teach bite inhibition, my rule is that my chows are never, ever allowed to mouth, not in any way. They can lick but open mouthed approachs for attention or anything else are firmly discouraged. Closed mouthed nosing, or licking is okay, (to a point), dogs do communicate with their mouths this is understood. But no dog you own should ever approach you to grap you with their mouths open."

That's actually one of my problems. He's always approaching me with his mouth open. So how should I teach him how to come to me closed mouth?

Let me clarify that a bit. What I mean by open mouth approaches in this instance is your chow walks up to you with mouth open or closed, and then actually starts to grap you, (your hand, pants leg etc) with his mouth. It takes being very watchful on your part and learning to read their body language and anticipate their next action. I'm pretty good at it, but I got better when Dreamdancer was little, I can still picture in my mind, how he would come to me, then tilt his little head then reach out with his open mouth to try and grab me. I would give him a sit command, the moment his head tilted. Then I would extend my hand to him, if he reached for me with his mouth, I would say "no' very firmly, put him in a sit again and we would repeat until he allowed me to pet without him reaching. If he approached and didn't tilt his head and he was calm, I allowed it without any commands, unless he changed his mind at the last moment, then we would do the No, Sit thing. Dreamdancer was a very assertive puppy, and we had to really work for him to learn who was boss. However, I've never, hit, shook or rolled him and now once he got to be about 4 months old, no one could tell that he's really assertive, with people he's very docile and smushy. He loves everyone. I attribute this to three things, 1st excellent socializztion by Linda snd the good folks at WTCR, 2nd early bite hibition training and 3 and this is important too, positive early experiences with people during early socialization.

[Cam Atis]

It takes patience to do it. Your schedule of being a full time student means you have a small window of time to be with your chow. So observing certain behavior for half an hour will not have the same accuracy as compared to 12 hours of constant companionship if you are at home all the time. Your problem has been an issue to almost all dog owners in one stage oF their puppyhood. It is not only to Camickey.
The least you can do is patience and laugh a lot. You know, dogs can sense your lonesomeness and would do some well intended tricks to divert your attention. These negative emotion perception doesnt always translate into aggressiveness on a dog. So I dont worry about it. I go to my dogs when I feel lonely petting them. If your dog is grumpy well that's possible - aggressiveness. A joker dog can be seen cavorting, zoomies, grabbing things to make you chase him. A grumpy one would rather stay in a corner and growls when challenge.

When Camickey licks your hands, say "Kisses Camickey" in a sweet voice. Master the tone of that praise and repeat (the tone) whenever the act of licking is done. To start you up, gather a small amount of peanut butter on your fingers and of course camickey will naturally lick you: Say the keyword to him "Kisses" you do that in two weeks and he'll know what you mean when he bites and you say "Kisses"
He will shift gear and kiss you. Be prepared to praise and give him a hug. I dont need to have him sit when teaching kisses. You can combine the two later.

[camickey]

So I was read Victory's post about teaching bite inhibition. It was stated there that, "How do you teach bite inhibition, my rule is that my chows are never, ever allowed to mouth, not in any way. They can lick but open mouthed approachs for attention or anything else are firmly discouraged. Closed mouthed nosing, or licking is okay, (to a point), dogs do communicate with their mouths this is understood. But no dog you own should ever approach you to grap you with their mouths open."

That's actually one of my problems. He's always approaching me with his mouth open. So how should I teach him how to come to me closed mouth?

I attribute this to three things, 1st excellent socializztion by Linda snd the good folks at WTCR, 2nd early bite hibition training and 3 and this is important too, positive early experiences with people during early socialization.

I think I have another problem. Mochi drools too much. When we're having his daily walk, they would be charmed by his cuteness that they want to touch him but they would pull back. Some even said not to come near him that he's dangerous because he drools so much and he might bite. They won't even try to approach him. Yet some kids will go to him, touch him and Mochi just let them do it. Someone said that it's just because of his growing teeth. Until when will he have that teeth?

About his bite inhibition training, I'm working on it.

[camickey]

When Camickey licks your hands, say "Kisses Camickey" in a sweet voice. Master the tone of that praise and repeat (the tone) whenever the act of licking is done. To start you up, gather a small amount of peanut butter on your fingers and of course camickey will naturally lick you: Say the keyword to him "Kisses" you do that in two weeks and he'll know what you mean when he bites and you say "Kisses"
He will shift gear and kiss you. Be prepared to praise and give him a hug. I dont need to have him sit when teaching kisses. You can combine the two later.

Do you mean the peanut butter that we're eating? Or do they have peanut butter for dogs?

[Cam Atis]

It is the peanut butter we are eating. It is also helpful when vaccinating solo. I smear some peanut butter on the floor to keep the pooch busy while I inject.