dogs in my bed 5

General discussions about Chow Chows.

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carolyn dewrance
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dogs in my bed 5

Postby carolyn dewrance » Sat Apr 23, 2005 2:27 am

When the world was being created, what dog was allowed to lick up all the little pieces of blue sky, which fell on the earth when the stars were being set in their place? "The Chow" said Li Fu, "and that's how he got his blue tongue"
The Chow is a wonderful watchdog, never barking unnecessarily, and his very appearance is forbidding to any unwelcome caller. The Chow, as a rule, is not friendly with strangers and seems to resent being touched by those he doesn't know, although he will very seldom resort to growling. He will just back away and, if a house dog, will leave the room when visitors are there« The unique aloofness of our breed should not be mistaken for timidity, or tearfulness, as it is a well known characteristic and not strange when one considers that it's not very long ago that the modern Chow's ancestors had a permanent struggle to survive at all, living in a most cruel existence, one is not surprised that they have an inborn distrust of strangers. However, the rumor that Chows are vicious is definitely wrong.
In South Africa Chows Chows are gradually gaining popularity. A lot of this success is contributed to an well-organized club called "THE CHOW CHOW CLUB OF THE'TRANSVAAL" which now has a growing membership of 120 family units.
Looking at the present Chow Chow in South Africa one finds some very good specimens and the standard of the average Chow has definitely improved.

It is with many thanks to the Kennel Union of Southern Africa that a list of the first Chows Chows in Southern Africa has been supplied to me for addition in my book. After having gone right through the registration book that covers the period from 1891 to October 1906. In that period only 6 Chows Chows were registered and it is most probably that they-were all imported. Certainly there is no indication that any of the dogs were bred from, added to which in none of the cases is there any note of the Sire and Dam.

1643 Darby a male chow and 1944 Joan a female chow were registered by the kennel union of South Africa by Mrs. Thompson on the 5.12.1896. Sam a chow male registration number 3024 belonged to Mr. W.T. Curry in 24.3.1899. Petti singh a bitch belonged to Mrs. C. Bethell 27.10.1903. Max a male chow belonged to Mrs. W. Roberts in 8.2.1904 . And registration number 5980 Meph a male chow belonged to Mrs. D Clark in 26.2.1904.

Alexander of Meltari age 6 weeks.

When looking back at these dogs, it is sad to think that no more information can be found on them and that according to the Kennel Union none of the dogs were ever bred. I also enclose here a list of total registration of all the Chow Chow's from the year of 1934 -1986. As you will see, up until 1952 there were under 50 being registered a year and that the Union has no reason to suppose that the figures where any higher before 1934.
"Where the first two Chow Chow's that belonged to Mrs Thompson the ancestors of our modern day Chow Chow, they were a dog and a bitch, and it is possible that they might have had a litter of unregistered puppies some time in their early life. Where they were imported from is hard to say, but possibly it could have been from England


On doing a summary of the Chow Chow it appears that between the years 1934 to 1974, Chows Chows were very much an unknown dog in this county. Even today from the year 1975 to 1984 it appears that there have only been 5,736 Chows Chows registered in Southern Africa. This in it self is not a great many dogs, and shows that though no longer rare, they are still relatively unknown in this country. It is interesting to note that during the war years of 1938-1945, 172 Chows Chows were registered with the Kennel Union. Thereafter there once again seems to be a lack of interest in their breeding until the years of 1966-1968 when 337 Chows Chows were registered in the three years. Today the Chow Chow seem to be finding its place in man's society, these beautiful creatures are often looked upon as "the rich Man’s pet" but this is not so, as a great many Chow Chow’s now owned, are by normal middle class people. It is sad that there are only a very few breeders, and that today there are few really quality specimens around. A great many of these dogs are still breed by people not in the know of the general standard and still produce very low quality animals. But thanks must go to the breeders who are now importing extremely high grade stock from other parts of the world, which in turn is leading to better Chow Chow's now being bred in this country, most of them are from the Transvaal where the breeding of these dogs has the greatest number. The total amount of Chow's registered in South Africa from the year 1934 to 1983/4 is 1, 357. This amount is very small in comparison to the number of German Shepherds and Doberman Pinchers registered every year.

He's called the "lion dog" or a Little teddy bear" "Chinese Ching" and many others, sometimes not so complimentary names are given to one of the oldest breeds of dogs, the Chow Chow. Not only is the Chow Chow reputed to be over 4 thousand years old, but also it has a unique characteristic of a blue tongue, which is shared by no other of the canine family. SCIENTIFIC Research indicated that the Chow originated in China as long as 3000 years ago. According to some canine historians on the other hand, some scholars believe that the Chow first came from the Arctic Circle, then migrated to Mongolia, Siberia and then to China. The Chow as it is known today is easily recognizable in pottery and bos relief sculpture on the Han Dynasty, (206 B.C. to 200 A.D.) This is the era of the birth of the modern Chow. Other artifacts indicate that the Chow was a distinct breed in China as early as 1000 B.C.
The word Chow or Chou is a slang word in the Chinese meaning edible; the shorthaired chow or smooth Chow is more usually eaten in China than the long coated variety. According to authority both the Chinese and Koreans have bred Chows to be eaten in place of mutton or lamb. The Chow is an out door dog of great stamina, A dog that was used to hunt and even pull a sledge, he was also used at one time for herding sheep and cattle.
In South Africa Chows shot into prominence with the acquisition in rather a strange manner, Mr. B. Rogoff (the first chairman of the Chow Chow Club of Johannesburg' which is now extinct). Of a dog called "Golden Boy". Mr. Rogoff won this dog with a shilling raffle ticket in 1942. Lady Barbara Royale the Queen Mother Cousin was the breeder of Golden Boy. Golden Boy before his untimely death of biliary fever, sired a dog-called Bogum Chang of Ningpo who was later to be come a world record holder. On Golden Boys death the news of his passing was broadcast over the S.A.B.C. Network. Mr. Rogoff was receiving over 70 telegrams of condolence. It was after his death that Lady Barbara Royale paid a visit to S.A. AND she made a special trip to visit the Rogoffs. Grants the Rogoffs purchased Bogum Chang of Ningpo for the sum of £250.00 on the 3rd September 1945. Older readers will remember this magnificent Show Dog, who was later to travel 40.000 " 50.000 miles around Rhodesia and the Union of S.A. and acquired the following amounts of awards. 600 First Prizes. 65 Championship Certificates. 101 Challenge Classes. 10 Best in Show.
At that time Mr. Rogoff ascertained from local and overseas dog breeders and authorities that this was a world record. A display cabinet in the home of Mr. Rogoff contains over 100 cups and trophies won by this famous Dog. So impressive was the dog that at the Bloemfontein Kennel Club Show, the Minister of Railways on seeing him offered "Borgam" free transit anywhere in the Republic of South Africa by the South African Railways. He traveled by rail to all the shows.
The Rogoffs booked a coupe for him and themselves and needless to say he caused a sensation at all the railway stations. The Chow Chow of S.A. owe a dept of gratitude to this magnificent dog as well as to Mrs and Mr Rogoff and also people like Mrs Schoeman, the Nobles, Miss Hammer Brown, Mr. Summerton and later the Rorkes and Prof Booysen for putting the Chow on the map. The Chow is a highly-strung and sensitive dog and is slow to mature. Some Chows do not reach their prime until they are five or six years old. Chow breeders, exhibitors and devotees of the breed know that the Chow is one of the most handsome as well as one of the most challenging of all breeds. But if we want to succeed in making the breed a little more popular and more widely appreciated and understood, the truth must be faced. The Chow Chow still has the reputation of being bad tempered, and to combat that stigma, all Chow people must work together, to present the chow to the public in the best possible light. A chow must be groomed if he is to be the most beautifully, although your chow may be of high Quality, if he is not brushed he looks unkempt and disheveled certainly not his best. In South Africa the breed has made great strides with Consistent winners coming from the Kennels of the Rorkes, Pieterse, Naudes, Jenkins, Prinsloo, Haleys, Myburgs, Dewrance, and Skidmore, and especially from the late Mr. Toppie van Niekerk of Topponas kennels, who has so far produced the most winners in the country and is the owner of some of the best dogs in the world. It is from Topponas Kennels that the rest of us breeders, obtained our best show dogs. Stud and puppies -The Chow Chow Club of the Transvaal's first trophy show in 1978 attracted over 50 dogs and in September 1979 they held their first open show. The first Championship show was held in June 1980.
It might be interesting to note that when Mrs. Thompson registered the first two Chows with the Kennel Union of S.A. in 1896 that history also played a part in the lives of the first Chow's, In 1896 the Jameson Raiders were defeated by the Boers, on the 1st January 1896.
It is also noted that when Mr. W.T- curry registered his Chow in March 1899 that the Boer War was soon to start, only just 7 months later on the 10th October 1899. What became of these first three Chows Chow's during the early days of the conquest of South Africa, and if their owners were involved in the two wars mentioned above.
When I visited the Vet some time ago, he said that he would be giving my dog 2 CC'S of "whatever he called it".
At the very next show I overheard a conversation where an exhibitor said that his dog won 2 c.c.’s Surely the C.C.'. S the Vet was referring to be not the same ones awarded at shows.
Many Novice Chows members must have had the same experience. In a simple way I would like to explain what a "C.C." means and how a dog becomes a Champion.
Champion Status is awarded to a dog by the Kennel Union of South Africa (KUSA) who, after application has been made on the prescribed form, will issue a Champion Certificate to the owner and a Breeders Certificate to the Breeder.
The dog has to achieve a total of 5 points under different judges and at least one point has to be gained in a different center. The whole country is divided into twelve centers, which have been decided upon by KUSA.
Points are awarded at Championship Shows and ace derived from the judges decision to award a Challenge Certificate (C-C.) or Reserve Challenge Certificate (R.C.) this has now dropped away as from the 1.1.86 to the dogs who in his opinion are worthy of the label implied. After the open class has been judged, all unbeaten dogs from the other classes are called into the ring wherefore the c.c.’s are awarded. Each C.C- is worth one point, unless there are 10 or more dogs of that breed and *Censored Word* present (except dogs entered in the Champions, restricted and veterans classes) in which the C.C. is worth 2 point. There fore a dog can be made a Champion by gaining 2.2point C.C.'S plus 1, Point C.C. or 5- Point C.C.'S.
Should a puppy under the age of 9 months on the day of the show be awarded a C.C. such points will not count towards Champion Status. (The dog must be 9 months or over 9 months on the day of the show).
Having achieved a total of 5 points, Photostat copies of the C.C. certificates together with an application for Championship form must be forwarded to KUSA, who sill then issue the Champion Certificate.
Donated by Mr J. Naude for publication with amendments by
C.A. Mc Intyre Dewrance Re: the R.C. certificate.

Champion Monique, Julie Dawn, Atraio, and Lady Loretta.

An ancient breed of northern Chinese origin, this all-purpose dog of China was used for hunting, herding, pulling and protection of the home. While primarily a companion today, his working origin must always be remembered when assessing the true Chow type.
A powerful, sturdy, squarely built, upstanding dog of arctic type. Medium in size with strong muscular development and heavy bone. The body is compact, short coupled, broad and deep, the tail set high and carried closely to the back, the whole supported by straight, strong, sound legs. Viewed from the side the metatarsals (bone between the hock joint and foot) are directly beneath the hip joint. It is this structure that produces the characteristic short, stilted gait unique to the breed- the large head with broad, flat skull and short, broad and deep muzzle is proudly carried and accentuated by a ruff. Elegance and substance must be combined into a well balanced whole, never so massive as to outweigh his ability to be active, alert. Clothed in an off standing double coat. The Chow is a masterpiece of beauty, dignity and naturalness, unique in his blue-black tongue, scowling expression and stilted gait.

Proudly carried, large in proportion to the size of the dog but never so exaggerated as to make the dog seem top heavy or to result in a low carriage. The top skull is broad and flat from side to side and front to back. Coat and loose skin cannot substitute for the correct bone structure. Viewed in profile the top line of the muzzle and skull are approximately parallel, joined by a moderate stop- the padding of the brows may make the stop appear steeper than it is.
The muzzle is short in comparison to the length of the top skull. The length is not less than one-third or more than two fifths of the head length. The muzzle is broad and well filled out under the eyes, its width and depth are equal and both dimensions should appear to be the same from its base to its tip.

This square appearance is achieved by correct bone structure plus padding of the muzzle and full cushioned lips. The muzzle should never be so padded or cushioned as to make it appear larger than the skull or other than square in shape. The upper lips completely cover the lower.
Large, broad and black in color with well-opened nostrils. DISQUALIFICATION:
Nose spotted or distinctly other color than black, except in blue chows that may have a solid blue or slate nose.
Edges of the lips black, tissues of the mouth mostly black, gums preferably black. A solid black mouth is ideal. The top surface and edges of the tongue solid blue black.
The top surfaces or edges of the tongue red or pink or with one or more spots of red or pink.
Strong and even with a scissors bite, in which the outer side of the lower incisors touches the inner side of the upper incisors.
Dark brown, deep set and placed wide apart and obliquely, of moderate size almond in shape. The correct placement and shape should create an Oriental appearance. The eye rims black with lid, which neither turns in nor droop and the pupils of the eyes clearly visible.
SERIOUS FAULTS: Entropion or ectropion, or pupils wholly or partially obscured by loose skin.

Small moderately thick, triangular in shape with a slight rounding at the tip. Carried stiffly erect but with a slight forward tilt* Placed wide apart with a slight forward tilt. Placed wide apart with the inner corner on top of the skull- an ear, which flops as the dog, moves are very undesirable.
Drop ear or ears. A drop ear is one that breaks at any point from its base to its tip or which is not carried stiffly erect but lies parallel to the top of the skull.
Essentially scowling dignified, lordly, discerning, sober and snobbish. One of independence. The scowl is achieved by a marked brow with a padded button of skin just above the inner upper corer of each eye, by sufficient play of skin to form frowning brows and a distinct furrow between the eyes beginning at the base of the muzzle and extending up the forehead, by the correct ear shape, carriage and placement. Excessive loose skin is not desirable. Wrinkles on the muzzle do not contribute to expression and are not required.

Neck: Strong, full well muscled, nicely arched and of sufficient length to carry the head proudly above the top line when standing at attention.
Short, compact, close coupled, strongly muscled, broad, deep and well let down in the flank-
Top line: Straight, strong, and level from the withers to the root of the tail. CHEST.
Broads, deep and muscular, never narrow or slab-sided. The ribs close together and well sprung not barrel. The spring of the front ribs is somewhat narrowed at their lower ends to permit the shoulder and upper to fit smoothly against the chest wall The floor of the chest is broad and deep extending down to the tips of the elbows. The point of sternum slightly in front of the shoulder Points.

Labored or abdominal breathing (not to include normal panting). Narrow or slab sided chest.
Loin: Well muscled. Strong, short, broad, and deep. Croup: Short and broad with powerful rump and thigh muscles giving a level croup. The Body back, coupling, and croup must all be short to give the required square build.

Well-feathered set high and carried closely to the back at all times, following the line of the spine at the start.

Shoulders, strong well muscled, the tips of the shoulder blades moderately close together, the spine of the shoulder blade lays back at an angle of approximately 55 degrees with the ground and forms an angle with the upper arm of approximately 110 degrees resulting in less reach of the forelegs, length of the upper arm never less than length of shoulder blade. Elbow joints set well back alongside the chest wall, elbows turning neither in nor out.
Perfectly straight from elbow to foot with heavy bone that must be in proportion to the rest of the dog, Viewed from the front, the forelegs are parallel and widely spaced commensurate with the broad chest.
PASTERN: Short and upright. Wrists shall not knuckle over.
FEET: Round, compact, cat like, standing well up on the thick toe pads.
The rear assembly broad powerful and well muscled in the hips and thighs, heavy in bone with rear and front bone approximately equal. View from the rear, the legs is straight, parallel and widely spaced commensurate with the broad pelvis.
STIFLE JOINT: Shows little angulation, are well-knit and stable, points straightforward
And the bones of the joint should be clean and sharp-.

Puppy Coat, soft, thick, and woolly overall. The coat forms a profuse ruff around the head and neck, framing the head.
The coat and ruff generally longer in dogs than in bitches. The coat length varies markedly on different chows and the thickness; texture and condition should be given greater emphasis than length. Obvious trimming of the whiskers, feet, and metatarsals optional. The smooth coated Chow is judged by the same standard as the rough coated Chow, except that references to the quantity and distribution of the outer coat are not applicable to the smooth coated Chow, which has a hard dense, smooth outer coat with a definite under coat. There should be no obvious ruff or feathering on the legs or tail.
COLOUR: solid or solid with lighter shadings in the ruff, tail and feathering.
There are five colors in the Chow. Ted, (light golden to deep moghany) black, blue, cinnamon (light to deep cinnamon) and cream. Acceptable colors to be judged on an equal basis.
Size. The average height of adult specimens is 17-20, at the withers but in every case consideration of overall proportions and type should take precedence over size,

Square in profile and close coupled. Distance from fore chest to point of buttocks equal height at the highest points of the withers.
A rectangular profile. Distance from tip of elbow to ground is half the height at the withers. Floor of chest level with tips of elbows Width viewed from the front and rear is the same and must be broad. It is these proportions that are essential to true Chow type.
Keen intelligence, an independent spirit and innate dignity gives the' Chow an aura of aloofness. It is a Chow's nature to be reserved and discerning with strangers. Displays of aggression or timidity are unacceptable. Because of its deep-set eyes the Chow has poor peripheral vision and is best approached within the scone of that vision.

Faults shall be penalized in proportion to their deviation from the standard. In judging the Chow, the overall picture is of primary consideration. Exaggeration of any chaterteristic at the expense of balance or soundness shall be severely penalized. Equally objectionable are snippy, fine boned specimens and overdone ponderous, cloddy specimens. In comparing specimens of different *Censored Word* due allowance must be made in favor of the bitches who may not have as much head or substance as do the males. There is an impression of femininity in bitches as compared to an impression of masculinity in dogs. Type should include general appearance, temperament the harmony of all parts and soundness especially as seen when the dog is in motion. There should be proper emphasis on movement, which is the final test of the Chow's conformation, balance and soundness.
Nose spotted or distinctly any other color than black except in blue Chows that may have solid blue or slate noses. The top surface or edges of the tongue red or pink or with one or more
Spots of red or pink,

Drop ears, A drop ear is one which breaks at any point from its base to its tip or which is not carried stiffly erect but lies parallel to the top of the skull.
With permission from the Kennel union of South Africa.


1. Telegony, this is a theory that the sire of one litter can influence the progeny of future litters coming from he same brood bitch. This thankfully is a false theory,
2. The inbreeding of dogs produces degenerate or often mad offspring. This is a misconception. Inbreeding produces puppies that concentrate on the weaknesses as well as the good points of the parents. Nothing is perfect.
3. Well-fed females during pregnancy tend to produce more females, and a poorly fed bitch will produce more males, this is again a false theory.
4. It is said that bitches with long loins are more desirable then those with short loins, because there is more room for puppies. Bitches are usually a little longer in body then the dog, so this fact really has no basis.
5. You are able to accurately evaluate puppies at birth, because their true structure is in miniature form. This is not true, of course you will have your favorite puppy from birth, but it may not be the pick of the litter.
There are many more. Myths and Superstitions and none of them really hold true they are just "old Dams tales".

By the time you Chow Chow bitch is six months old she could have her first period, but it is not advisable to mate her at this time, for she is far to young, and most probably will not be producing eggs. The most ideal age is between 12-16 months. If your dog is a show dog then you must not have her spayed, except once she has produced a litter of puppies or for a serious life saving operation when a certificate must be sent to the Kennel Union, explaining the need for the operation, and signed by you Vet. For you cannot show a spayed Bitch that has not had a litter of registered puppies, except in an open show. Not in a Champion Ship show.
It is often said that breeding a bitch improves health and her temperament, and that every bitch should have the experience of raising at least one litter of puppies, " My Bitch Monique, when pregnant is an extremely vicious bitch to any other bitches around, and can't stand small dogs, but is remarkably sweet to the cats, and any kittens that are around, and mothers the kittens".
Many bitches make wonderful Mothers, but many refuse to accept or even nurse their puppies.
Do not breed puppies for the sake of teaching your child *Censored Word* education, "Artificial Insemination is not the way to teach you child about *Censored Word*" "there are many fine books for the children to read, and dogs are not like. Humans". You may be landed with puppies you can't sell or even give away. An never cross breed your Chow with another Breed of dog, as lovely as the puppies may be they are mongrels, and not something to be proud of. Your Chow Chow is purebred and may be a Champion one-day, so choose very carefully a mate for her, and only breed if you can afford to pay the Stud fees, unless you have a male Chow chow of your own. Stud fees in S.A. can go as high a R1000.00 per mating.
The condition of the Mother to be must be good, she must not be to fat or thin, and her skin and hair must be in excellent condition. She must not be infested with ticks or fleas, (fleas cause worms). She must be examined thoroughly before mating, your veterinary Surgeon, make sure her injections are all up to date and that have dewormed her.

A Chow Chow bitch comes into season, one in every six months. Her first sign will be a bloody discharge from the *Censored Word*, this discharge lasts for approximately nine days before turning to a light pink or creamy color, it is in these next seven days that the bitch will be ready to accept a male.
Many Chow Bitches are difficult to mate, and you will need a helping hand, one person should steady the bitch’s head and it is wise to apply a muzzle to her jaws as she could give a nasty bite if frightened. Another person will be needed to steady her body and to raise her vulva so that the male can penetrate her *Censored Word*. A third person will be needed to assist the male to mount the bitch in the correct position, and to be held in that position whiles the mating occurs.
The best time to mate your bitch is from the 9th day of her discharge to the 16th day, l has found that the best Day for my bitches is the 13th day. This is when the eggs are being released from the ovaries; the sperm will find their way to the ovaries and will impregnate them. Sperm can live for a period of seven days inside the uterus before dying, -if no eggs are available to impregnate.
The last seven days (or five days) some dogs season is a little longer than other going up to 25 days, is when the bitch is going out of heat, the resting period. If you have mated your bitch at the right time, you can count forward 61 days to have the approximate time of when to expect her puppies.
If you find your bitch very unco-operative with the chosen male, it is no use wasting time, and hoping that they will mate another day, it may be to late, go directly to Artificial Insemination and be sure that your bitch gets the right amount of sperm which in 99% of the case. Artificial Insemination does work. And produces very good litters, I have personally inseminated three of my Bitches, and all have produced good healthy litters, It is advisable to breed your female only once a year, so that she is in a good condition when she has her litter -A chronic female is not a valuable breeding hitch any you do not wish to raise a litter of puppies, you should consider having her spayed, provided she is not a show dog.
The average length of pregnancy from mating to whelping is 63 days. For the first few weeks of pregnancy if a bitch is on a balanced diet and she receives sufficient but not too much exercise, then no change is necessary.

2) Weight gain, not much weight is gained in the first 4 weeks. But again it is advisable to weigh your bitch from mating and each week thereafter. A gain of 2kg could mean 1-2 puppy, but 4-5 kg might be many more, depending on their size. This is not a definite way of calculation the size of a litter but could give you a slight estimate of how many to expect, and average newborn puppy weighs about 250grams at birth.
The best way to settle you curiosity is to have your bitch X Rayed, at about the 55-58th day when the bones are sufficiently formed to be able to show the formation of the Puppies, If only one or Two puppies you may be able to see one or both clearly, but on the other hand if she has not had a bowel action during the day, one or both puppies may be super-imposed by stool in the large bowel. In a recent x-ray of my pregnant Bitch Champion Monique, one good size puppy showed up clearly, on the x-ray plate, perfectly formed, but above it was what looked like parts of another puppy but as I have said super-imposed by stool. The opinion of both vets who looked at the x-ray was that there might be another puppy or it might be just an unusual stool formation, and we would have to wait until she Gave birth.
3) A change in breasts and nipples is noticed about the 35th day, she may also show a darkening of her nipples very early in pregnancy. At about the 5th week the nipples begin to swell and stand out, they may appear very pink. As her pregnancy advances the breasts soften and enlarge until about the 50th day. Several days before whelping a watery fluid may be expressed from the nipples. In a maiden bitch, real milk will not appear until the birth of the litter.
4) Bitches usually become more serene and settled and affectionate as the pregnancy advances, but on occasions the highly-strung bitch may be more aggressive and tense. In her last few days she may be inclined to follow you all over the house, looking for attention all the time.
5) In the last week of her pregnancy the unborn puppies can often be seen or touched as they move inside the mother while she is lying down on her side in a relaxed position. Movement may not be felt in a bitch with only one puppy. Do not palpate your bitch’s abdomen for this could cause damage to the fetuses, A Vet will all ways be available to examine her.
At 28 days the Vet will be able to tell whether she is pregnant or not, by feeling for the puppies in her uterus, the puppies may be very high under her rib cage, then they will be almost impossible to detect.

If you feel carefully the abdomen up the uterine horn you may feel what feels like little marbles, these are the puppies developing, but do not press hard or be rough as you could damage or even kill them. You will find that during her forth week she may loose her appetite for a few days, but this will come back with a vengeance, and it is during this forth week that she should start having two meals a day. She will also require increased levels of vitamins and minerals, amino acids and energy. If these are not received from an adequate diet, she will get them by depleting her body reserve. As her appetite increases start offering her two meals a day, morning and evening, but make sure she has plenty of water and dried dog food available at all times. Nutritious additions to her diet should be added and these should include a high level of protein, such as cottage cheese, eggs, meat, and liver. Butter milk and goat’s milk is also very good for her. In addition to any vitamins and minerals supplement calcium for the formation of bones. Kelp or seaweed for the dark coloring on the Chow Chow tongue, and cod liver oil for their fur.
Towards the end of her pregnancy be careful that she does not become constipated, - and also watch that she does not contract gastroenteritis. Your bitch will appreciate extra attention and love during her pregnancy, but do not over indulge her and do not become neurotic about her condition, for you will find you may need the doctor yourself, allow her to continue naturally as you would yourself if you were pregnant.
Preparation for whelping should be made during the last weeks of pregnancy. Select an area away from the bustle of the household, in a spare room or somewhere where it will be quite for your bitch. If in a flat or apartment place a box for her in your own bedroom where she will be near to you when her labor begins. A large wooden box is the most advisable, lined with newspapers; the sides must be high enough to keep the puppies in and draughts out. One side can be partly cut down so as to allow the mother easy access to her baby’s -A tray with necessary supplies should be placed on a table near the whelping box or on top of it.
1. Rectal Thermometer, Towels, Hot water bottle or heating pad, covered to keep puppies warm, Paper towels and cleaning tissues. Extra newspapers for the box. Cotton tips. Vaseline, Blunt scissors for cutting cords, dental floss for tying cords iodine Small forceps to remove- membranes around puppy, Baby scale or kitchen scale. Premature or special puppy baby bottle, Bitches milk substitute or Ideal milk, available from your supermarket or Vet.


Not all dogs go through these stages.
1st week. 1-7 days. She may go be off her food and quite at this stage, she is still in season and it will be impossible to tell it she is pregnant.
2nd Week 8-14 days She should be eating her normal ration of food and may still have a discharge from the vulva which could be brown in color-
3rd Week Her discharge should now he turning white and you maybe able to feel small lumps in her uterus, if you know how to palpate her properly. If not a vet will be able to tell you for sure during her forth week, She should be eating her normal food as well as extra milk every day.
4th Week 22-27 Days She may still have a slight white discharge, and you sill find that she will now become fussy over what she eats; she will also have morning sickness.
5th Week 28.35 days. Her abdomen may look slightly enlarged and her nipples may look bigger and harder. She may still be suffering from the various bout of morning sickness, and may still not he interested in plain dog food, treat her to more tasty food from this week onwards•
6th week
36-42 days She should now start eating more than her normal ration, and you should be able to see an increase in her girth. She will also be very protective of herself and may attack other dogs; it is best that she is kept separated from them.
7th Week 43-49 days. Eating well and looking pregnant, her coat should be in perfect Condition and she herself should be in excellent health.
8th Week 49*55 days She is now looking very large and heavy, her breasts should be well formed and fluid may be expressed towards the end of this week. Exercise is important throughout her pregnancy. She should be eating very well.
9th Week
56-63 days She may not be very interested in her food during this last week, and it is best to feed her a light diet, she will also start looking for a nesting place in which to give birth. Best to provide her with a strong whelping box and lots of newspapers. She will be very heavy, and tire very easily. Her breasts will have milk and she will go into labor and give birth to her puppies.
When it was established that my bitch was pregnant, I decided to try the ancient birth remedy of feeding her Raspberry leaf with all her meals. The reason for this is that the Raspberry leaf which is available from any health shop softens the tissues of the *Censored Word* and cervix, therefore allowing an almost pain and problem free birth. It also helps to provide more oxygen to the placentas and thence to the unborn puppies. This in turn makes them stronger and more able to cope with the elements outside the uterus, once my bitch started her early labor she took it very easy. "I was the anxious one who paced the floor all night and got no sleep at all" She started to make her nest at about 4pm on the 3rd July, during the night she was at times restless, but most off the time she relaxed and tried to sleep, during her wake full periods I fed her on Honey, Milk, and Raspberry leaf. "Lady" produced her first healthy bitch puppy at 6.25am on the 4th July, She did not scream in pain and the puppy was Born with no difficulty at all, the next four followed in very quick succession with about 20 minutes to each birth, her fifth puppy arrived at about 8.55am. She then rested for two hours, knowing that she still could give birth to another puppy I gave her another drink of Honey and Raspberry and Milk, and the last most beautiful puppy born in the litter arrived at 10am. This was the largest puppy born in the litter. Now that all the births were over another dose of the above with extra calcium this time, to help her to rid her self of any retained placentas.
Today my puppies are a day old, they are healthy and sucking well, their color is good and their temperatures are normal. Mum has plenty of milk to feed them. I can only recommend Raspberry leaves to all those who have had problems in their breeding pattern. Hopefully your bitch may not have to have a Caesarian the next time and that all your puppies will be born alive and healthy. So please give Raspberry leaves a place in your home, next time you are expecting a litter and may all your problems he healthy little ones. "This also works on the pregnant human as well making birth very much easier and far less painful.

A few days before whelping you will possibly be able to extract a few drops of liquid from the* bitches breasts, but sometimes the breasts do not fill until she is in labor or even after the puppies are born, It is essential that once she has completed whelping that she attends the Vet who can give her a hormone injection to reduce the uterus and any fever, this will also bring on the milk. From about the 60th day you may notice a slight drop in her temperature from the normal 38.5 it will drop to about 37.9 this could fluctuate during the next few days, and could be a little higher in the evening, e.g. 38.1 this drop and rise can continue for a few days and please remember not all bitches whelp when they should, some have puppies on the 61st day while others can go to 70 days, this is most probably caused by the egg's not been united with the sperm at the time of mating and the sperm having to lie in the uterus waiting for a few days until the eggs are ready, sperm can live for 7 days in the uterus, before they die, do not worry if your bitch appears to be a little over her date, or even a little early. First time pregnancies usually arrive a little earlier then second pregnancies. Fat bitches appear to go into labor later then their thinner companions. Once she goes into labor, you will notice a sudden drop in her temperature from 37,7 it may drop right down the thermometer to 36.5 but again this varies with different bitches and she may have only a slight change before she whelps. You may or may not feel movement in her abdomen in the last week and you can easily mistake her breathing for movements of the puppies. By 9 weeks the puppies are getting very large and if her uterus is crowded, there will not be much space for the puppies to move Large whelps are often quieter then smaller whelps, and this also depends on whether you mated the bitch with a dog very much larger then her, and also on what you have fed her during her pregnancy, a bitch only carrying one or two whelps, may not even look pregnant right until the end and you may not feel or even notice movement of the puppies in the uterus. In the last few days of pregnancy feed her several times a day and give her at least a half a liter of milk each day, her dry food should always be available and it might be an idea to feed her puppy biscuits at this stage. Many bitches have a change of appetite while-t pregnant, and you may find her wanting more raw meat, then the conventional dog food. My Chow "Monique" loved a plate of strawberries and cream* Fruit is very good for your dog if she will eat it. She will also love sour milk or "maas" and Buttermilk is also very good for her and helps to make her milk rich and strong-
Once she has started making her nest she will become very destructive and may ruin your carpets or furniture, you should have a whelping box for her or she should be placed in her outdoor kennel, which is draught free and rain proof.

The bitch will continue to do the same until all the puppies are born. Do not stop her from eating all the placentas. As they help her to produce milk and will do her no harm.
Dead puppies.
Sometimes a puppy could die in the uterus this could be caused by any number of problems. An unconditioned bitch, a puppy to large to pass through the birth canal, Pelvis to small in the bitch, the cord around the puppies neck or even the placenta dying during the growth period, or becoming detached from the puppy, the puppy could be deformed. Sometimes puppies fade away soon after birth and this could be caused by insufficient heating, lack of milk in the bitch, or birth trauma, the puppy could die from over heating as well, Lack of proper care in the pregnant bitch could lead to the death of the whole litter.

This is when the bitch has no milk supply at all, and is unable to feed her puppies, A hormone injection within 12 hours of whelping will help to bring on her milk supply, also a tablet from the homeopath called LAC CAN given to her once a day a week before she is due to whelp, and then three times a day until she has sufficient milk supply. If not you will have to feed the puppies yourself to avoid loosing them. A formula made from puppy milk available from your Vet or you can use Carnation Ideal Milk one can of milk to one can of water, and feed about 5ml every two hours during the day and at least three feeds during the night. You may have to stimulate the puppies by gently wiping their anus and genitalia and *Censored Word* with a piece of damp cotton wool, or if the mother is well enough she will hopefully do this and clean the puppies at the same time. The best way to feed a new born puppy is by stomach tube for the first two weeks as this is very quick and you know just how much food the puppy is getting, after two weeks the puppy can be fed by a puppy bottle, or be taught to drink out of a saucer. By three weeks they can be weaned and put onto more solid foods. Such as a baby cereal.
To tube feed, a puppy measure a fairly thick catheter from the puppies’ mouth to the last rib, and then mark the end by the mouth. Attach the catheter to a syringe and fill the syringe with milk, then allow a little to run through the tube, now clamp the tube above the mark, and insert the tube into the mouth and then into the stomach, If you get a blockage then you have gone into the lung do not depress the plunger until you know that the tube is safely in the puppies stomach.The tube is in the stomach, now remove the clamp and allow the milk. To run slowly into the puppies stomach, the milk must be just warm, and not to hot, '"after feeding burp the puppy by holding it in your hand and patting it on the back, It would he help full if you were able to get a surrogate mother for the puppy, if the mother can’t- manage it or if she has died giving birth. A whelping box is essential for your bitch to give birth to her puppies. Below is a list of whelping boxes you can make for her. As a chow is a large dog she will need a lot of space in which to move, a cardboard box is not advised as the bitch will possibly tear it to pieces and it will be wet and stained after the birth. I personally feel the best place for a bitch to have her puppies is on an old piece of carpeting laid on a lot of lot of newspapers in your bedroom. Please cover the whole of your carpet with newspaper. She will be most comfortable with you at her side, to attend to her and the newly arrived puppies. I have a large whelping box, which when not in use is left in the sunshine and disinfected before each new litter arrives, and replaced, in my bedroom. Once the puppies have been born, it is then that I place them with their mother into the whelping box. I find that my bitch requires my services when their time is near and that any comfort that I can give them is most essential. Once labor starts, I keep an eye on the bitch the whole time. I will take her temperature rectally every hour until she start's to bear down. Once the puppies have born and the floor had been cleaned of wet and dirty paper, this is the time to start using the whelping box.The one I have is about 3 feet high by 2 feet wide and 3 ft long; it has a 1id that can be opened from the top so the bitch and puppies can be observed with out interference. There are pig rails around the inside of the box to protect the puppies from suffocating if their' mother should accidentally sit on one of them. All the instruments you need for whelping may be laid out on the top of this box within easy reach. Try to keep her in her box which should be lined with newspapers as she can scratch up these and they can be easily replaced. Once labour starts you may notice a slight swelling of her vulva and a slight discharge.This second stage is when she starts to have contractions, she will now be very restless and start walking up and down the room pausing at each contraction and breathing deeply. If you notice a green discharage, call your Vet as something could be wrong, You sill find that she may stare and lick at her hind quaters and panting and trembling will increase. She will then begin to strain. When giving birth the bitch may cry aout in pain, be with her at all times and reasure her. chows are very intellegent and she will understand what you are doing and saying to her.The first puppy should be born after two - three hours after contractions begin , If not again call your Vet, as the contractions increase in strength you may see part of the water bag of the first fetus appear at the mouth of the vulva. Usually it will burst by subsequent contractions or her continual licking, within a few minuets after th water bag has burst the first puppy should make his appearance into theworld. if is is not born after 30 minutes again call your Vet,but only call him if you think she is in difficulties. My Chrystal had a problem when she was in labour and being a very small bitch for a chow, I decided to take her to my Vet for assistance, Well athe first puppy was born dead, He then scanned her and said that there were 3 more puppies, and that she would have to stay in hospital, Chrystal Lost all her puppies because my Vet allowed her to stay in labour instead of doing an emergency ceaser. Regardless to say I found myself another Vet. The puppy usually appears head first, but sometimes you will have a breech delivery. The puppies head and shoulders are the largest part and require a great amount of exertion. Once the head is free the rest of the puppy should take between one and four minutes for it to be born. The puppy is enclosed in a slippery membrane with the umbical cord attached to the placenta. If she does not sever the cord or the membrane covering the puppy you must then take the matter into your own hands, If not removed immediately the puppy will sufforcate and die. Remove the membrane by tearing it with your fingers away from the puppies face enabling it to breath as quickly as possible to avoid suffercation. Once he is free you may then tie the cord and then cut it with sterile siccors. Be carefull not to pull on the stomach wall as this will cause an umbical hernia. HOW TO DEAL WITH THE CORD. Tie the cord firmly with dental floss about 1-2inches from the puppies body, clamp the center of the cord nearest the placenta with forceps or tie it again with dental floss. Now cut the cord in the centre of the two ties with blunt siccors. After the puppy has been seperated from the placenter swab the cord on the puppy end with iodine. Dry the puppy quickly and place him next to his mother. she will now begin to lick him and you may hear it gasp or cry. The bitch will then direct the puppy to her nipples and it should begin to suck.
This is a Life saving operation and not done just for the asking. If your Chow Bitch has not gone into labor three days after her due date, please seek urgent advice from your Vet. He may then advise an injection which would encourage her to start labor or do a Caesarian Section, this is an operation, in which the Surgeon cuts into the uteri of the Bitch to remove the whelps-if done in time all the puppies have a chance of surviving, but if left to long as in the case of my Bitch "Monique" who never went into labor, a Caesar was performed 5 days after her due date, and she was delivered of one large dead male whelp. There was no reason for the puppy to have died, and on inspection it was a perfectly formed puppy. But due to the bitch not going into labor it was lost. She herself suffered a slight set back, as her uterus would not reduce in size, and was only slightly infected, once on antibiotics as well as Oxytocin injection given she slowly started to feel more her normal self. She only really started to eat about 5 days after the operation and had to be coaxed with chicken and fish as well as a large slice of Christmas pudding and thick cream.
After a Cesar the Bitch will be very sore and will bleed a lot from the Vulva, don’t be to perturbed about the loss of Blood, and if you are, telephone or take her to see your Vet. Keep a check of her temperature at least 3 times a day and chart it. Make sure she is able to urinate as well as pass a stool. The third day after the operation is a good day to take her for a short walk around the garden or a dog park to get her bladder and bowels working properly.
Her wound and Stitches must be kept dry at all times and it is advisable to dust the stitches three times a day with a wound powder available from your Vet or chemist. If she is feeding puppies, and her breasts are pendulous, please dry between them after each feed, and dust with powder, this will keep infection away. Keep Breasts and Nipples free from fur while the young are sucking, as loose hair or fur can cause an obstruction in the digestive system of the young puppy. The Caesar wound should be healed by the 13th day and the stitches can be removed. POINTS TO REMEMBER –
1. Any bitch over 3 days
2 Protracted Labor.
3. The birth followed by a puppy blocking the birth passage.
4. No sign of labor and 3 days over due.
5 X-ray first to see where the problem lies and then treat.
6. A green discharge can be a sure sign that there is a problem, if this happens before the birth of any puppies. It means that the first placenta has parted from the puppy, and if the puppy is not delivered it will suffocate. Sometimes a Caesar should be done if this is suspected.

All four of the above need emergency treatment to save the life of the Bitch and her Whelps.
After "Monique’s" operation she fostered Two Chow Puppies from my other Bitch who had given birth a few days before, to four large puppies, all four did very well with their two mothers

DIFFICULT DELIVERIES:-Some time whelping does not proceed normally and complications do occur. Problems can arise in normal and abnormal presentations. Puppies may be to large to pass through the birth canal, you may have to help the bitch give birth, there fore it is not wise to leave her on her own while she is in labor and giving birth. Serious problems should be reported to your Veterinarian at once. If the bitch has difficulty in expelling a puppy and the head or rear end keeps appearing at the mouth of the vulva, wait for her next contraction and after scrubbing your hands and especially your fingernails clean, make sure your nails are not 1ong and sharp, spread a little K.W. Jelly or Vaseline around the vulva and as much of the exposed puppy as possible, be careful not to push the puppy back into the birth canal, or to damage the delicate tissue around the vulva. Try to keep the bitch in a standing position grasp the exposed part of the puppy gently with a clean handkerchief of a gauze dressing and during her next contraction gently ease the puppy out in an outward and downward turning movement. Repeat this action with each contraction until the puppy is born. NEVER PULL THE PUPPY OUT BY FORCE. If your bitch strains for 2-3 hours and has not produced any puppies then it is time to contact your Vet for advice on what to do. He will most likely advise you to take her to his surgery where he can examine her and if need be perform and emergency caesarian to save the Mother and puppies from further damage. Quite a few Chows do have problems with whelping but this can be overcome with proper care, feeding and exercise every day. An overfed, under active Chow may show signs of trouble. All bitches in whelp should have at least an hours run every day in a safe enclosed area of your garden or in the nearest dog park, do not allow her to come into contact with other bitches as it is best to avoid a fight which could prove fatal to the bitch in whelp.

Meltari Tangerine Dream

Rectal temperature 34.5 - 37.2
Respiration 20-30 per minute.
Heart 200 beat per minute
Sucking strong and vigorous.
Mucous membranes, at birth reddish in color, changing to blue.
Coat dry and smooth
Body warm and soft to touch.
Little or no crying.
Relaxes on its stomach flat with back legs extended behind and front legs in front or on its side with legs extended. Most Chows lie flat on their stomachs.
Crawls with no trouble towards its mother.
Reflexes are good when stroked on the back and body.
Contentious crying and restlessness will not stay with the Mother and prefers to go off by itself.
They are weak with no sucking instinct.
There will be a loss of weight and no gain in weight at all.
The coat will feel cold and damp to your touch and the body cold and clammy.
There will be shallow heartbeats and low respiration as well as a low rectal temperature.
Reflexes will be poor or absent altogether.
The puppy may look blown up (bloated)
The mother may not take interest in a sick or dying puppy and push it out of the nest.
If your puppy looks and feels lifeless don't give up trying to revive it until you are sure it is dead.
Clear its nose, mouth and chest of fluids, by wrapping a piece of gauze around your little finger and gently open the puppies mouth making sure the tongue is flat on the lower jaw, now proceed to wipe away any fluid. The puppy may have a cleft pallet and it is then advisable to have it put down. Another way is to hold the puppy gently but firmly in your two hands with its head in a downward position, now keeping hold of the puppy lift it high above your head and then swing it in a downward movement between your legs, do this at least twice, the force of the swing should remove any fluid from the puppies chest and throats gently rubbing a puppy in a warm towel may also start him breathing. Sometimes you will find that a drop of brandy or whisky may make the puppy gasp and then begin to breathe.
You could try artificial respiration by giving mouth of nose Resuscitation. Place pour mouth over the puppies and gently blow air into the nostrils for 2 seconds then removing your mouth so that the lungs can expel the air, continue until the puppy is either breathing on this own or not at all. Dead puppies should be removed from the mother immediately,
POST-WHELPING CARE. Once puppies are born, it is wise that you take the bitch out to relieve herself, she may not want to leave the babies, but it is essential that she pass water to avoid any problems with the urinary tract. While she is out you or a member of your family can now determine what *Censored Word* the puppies are, weight them and clean the whelping box of all soiled paper, replacing it with clean paper and a warm blanket, for the puppies. It is essential that she form a bond with her puppies as soon after birth as possible.
Check from time to time to see that she has a sufficient milk supply and that the puppy’s arc sucking contentedly. During the first 36 hours after whelping take your bitch to be examined by your Vet. For the first two days feed her as often as she needs, and give her milk to drink. By the 3rd day she can now resume her normal diet, she must now be given extra high protein foods and extra vitamin and mineral supplements.
During the first three weeks you will find the bitch totally devoted and protective towards her puppies. She will not usually allow any stranger near the room in which they are. Keep an eye on her to make sure that the puppies are receiving the correct amount of food, weigh them daily and make notes of their weight gains and losses.

If a surrogate mother is not available, you may have to feed your puppies by hand yourself.
This is only necessary if the mother dies during the birth, does not produce milk or has a litter to large to fee all herself, or if she is very ill.
If the litter is a large one, most Chows have an average of six or seven puppies, a bitch can feed them in relays, by allowing her to feed the weaker ones first then alternating with the larger stronger puppies, this will mean that instead of feeding every two hours she will feed at hourly intervals until she is able to produce enough milk to accommodate all the puppies at regular Feeding hours.
Orphan puppies can be successfully reared by obtaining a specially prepared milk formulae from your Vet, this must be prepared fresh for each feed and I find that the easiest way is to hold the puppy in my lap, on a folded nappy, feed with the bottle for premature infants or a dolls bottle, I find usually a ordinary teat of a baby bottle is large enough for a small puppy or as said before tube feed. Once the puppy learns to suck on the bottle-feeding will become a pleasure. You must of course help the puppy to urinate and expel feces, by gently stimulating its genital organs with a damp piece of cotton wool gently massaged over the area after any feed. This mother would do with her tongue, as she would lick them clean after all feeds. Puppies must be kept warm, at an even temperature and away from draughts.
The amount of feed would be according to body weight. Chow puppies should be fed at least 6 times a day or every 2-3 hours. Do not allow the puppy to feed to quickly, if the milk bubbles from its nose remove the bottle and clean the puppy then start again, after each feeding burp the puppy by holding it upright in your hand and pat or stroke it on its back.
The K.U.S.A. will accept puppies born by artificial insemination but a special form must be filled in when registering any litters, this form is available from them.
Where semen has been supplied from abroad the following procedure will be followed and the relative document will accompany the application for registration of any litters.
(a) A certificate signed by the Registered owner of the sire, and the qualified Veterinary surgeon who personally collected the semen. The certificate should include how positive identification of the dog has been obtained, e.g. under the supervision of a Vet. Breed club. Verification of registration document or pedigree Certified by a control body with relative name and reference numbers where applicable.
(b) A certificate signed by the Registered owner of the dam and the qualified practicing Veterinary Surgeon who personally inseminated the bitch.
A certificate should also testify that the semen was administered to the bitch against the relative collection certificate is correctly applicable to the dog from which it has been obtained,
The Kennel Union will also require a three generation Pedigree (or Photostat of the Sire issued by the Control body in the country of origin this should accompany the application for registration of the litter together with the above certificates, Also a copy of the importation Permit issued by the Chief Government Veterinary Officer at Onderstepoort, for the importation of Semen. relative to the control of Rabies and or other infections or contagious diseases, will be required.

Sometimes a bitch will abort her puppies; a bacterial disease called canine brucellosis causes this. Brucella Canis is spread by contact with the male during mating. Not many if any chows have had this problem, if they are breed in healthy clean kennels.
Once inside the body of a pregnant bitch the bacteria multiply rapidly and are soon transported through the blood stream to the placental tissues where they affect the unborn fetuses. Canine Brucellosis causes abortions after the 30th day and between the 7th and 9th week of Pregnancy.
When this happens at her whelping time, there may be a dark smelly vaginal discharge and litters may be delivered with some of the puppies alive and others dead.
Your veterinarian can determine the presence of Brucella Canis by means of a serum and blood culture test.
One of my early Saint Bernard bitches experienced this, and when she gave birth she had only two puppies alive out of a litter of twelve, but these two puppies did not live longer then two days, the dog had never been tested, and the owners where using him for stud to other bitches as well, until told them what had occurred. Treatment from the local Vet healed this dog and he fathered many healthy litters after the treatment.
This is probably caused by an imbalance of hormones; the bitch does not have to be mated with a dog to get the symptoms of a false pregnancy.
This is what happens to a bitch, which has been mated only to produce nothing at the end of 9 weeks.
After mating you will find your bitch goes through stages of being pregnant, her uterus swells and you as well as your Vet will
Be convinced that she has young growing inside. Her appetite will increase and so will her weight. Her overall condition will be outstanding, she will become quieter and more affectionate, and will demand more attention, she may become aggressive towards other bitches and very protective of her owner and home, don’t be surprised if she takes an intense dislike to people she once knew as friends. She will suffer from morning sickness and during her forth week could well go off her food, for a few days*
Towards the end of the nine weeks while you are preparing to receive a litter into your household, she will have swollen breasts and may even have milk* Sometimes they do not lactate. She may become very protective towards another per, such as the family cat or a small toy, she will most probably even start making her nest a few days before whelping, of course you will start to wonder what is happening when she produces nothing, a trip to you Vet at this time will confirm whether she is in whelp or just thinks she is. A very disappointing end to a hopeful! Nine weeks, which most likely cost you a lot of money in buying her special foods as well as vitamins and tonics, not counting the expense of the visits to the; Vet and extra injections. Your Bitch looks lovely on the extra attention and the more weight she has the better she is, but once it is determined that she is not pregnant, it is best to slowly bring her back to a normal diet.
Why this happens, no one can really say, maybe her ovaries were not functioning or maybe the dog’s sperm was sterile. It's just one of the mysteries of nature and has no reasonable answer. The best thing is to mate her when she comes into season next and hope that there will be a litter.


Application for registration with the South African Kennel Union. Must be made as soon as the puppies are born. A bitch can have any amount in a litter. Chow Chow puppies are born with their eyes closed, their tongues are pink in color but should be blue by the time they are five weeks old. At birth their ears are closed and bent forward over their heads, the ears should be standing up by the time they are two months old. Their eyes open at about 2 weeks of age. Their coat is woolly, until they are at
Carolyn Dewrance
4 Fernwood Close
Cape Town 7441


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